Joint Replacement CV Joint Boot Constant-Velocity Join

This page and its counterpart, will show the steps to renew the driveshafts.    You should work from the outside (CV) joint first, then the inboard joint.

The Driveshafts were removed on this page
First, a some diagrams of the driveshafts:

13) Stub-axle

11) Coupling

12) Balls

10) Housing

 9) Ligarex

8) Driveshaft

7) Boot

4) Circlip

5) Tri-Axe Coupling

6) Rotules
and the right driveshaft
Necessary Tools:

1) NEW clean metal bucket

2)Paint thinner, or mineral spirits - something that will break down the grease

3) Brake Cleaner - get the non- chlorinated kind

4) Big box of clean towels

5)Gloves that are resistant to thinners or solvents

6) Eye protection - you don't want the thinner or brake cleaner splashing in your eye.
First, remove the rubber boots.
Remove the Ligarex band (9) and cut the rubber boot (7) away.
Remove the Ligarex band  (9) that holds the remains of the inner boot (7).
Use a cutter to cut away the boot.  If you use a cheap plastic blade holder, you don't have to worry about getting your good blade holder dirty.
The Triax (5)  with the boot (7) removed.
outboard CV joint with boot removed.
Set the shaft in the steel can and pour turpentine / paint thinner over it.  You want enough turpentine to immerse the joint.  The solvent will thin the grease.  Use clean paper towels to remove the grease.  Use lots of clean towels & throw them away.  Remember they are cheap and disposable, treat them accordingly.  Set the joint back in the turpentine and circulate it again. Then towel it out.  Repeat several times.
The CV joint immersed in a bucket of turpentine. Yes, it's a different bucket.  This is the CV joint from the 25GTi, the bulk of this page has photos from the 2200 Pallas.
 Fill the CV joint with turpentine and rotate the axle through the solvent, and draining the solvent out of the axle.  Note the color of the turpentine, after it has flushed through the axle a few times.
 
I used tweezers and paper towels to get some of the grease out. The grease will collect in little globs.  Swabs would work well too.
I scraped some of the dirt out of the ABS Teeth.  This is not as necessary, as this is outside the rubber boot.  But it is important to have the  area around the CV axle as clean as possible - don't want stray dirt sneaking in. 
Next, the brake cleaner.  Please use non-chlorinated.  The dirt is not as tough as the crap on the brakes, so it's not necessary to use the really toxic stuff.  Get the can with the plastic tube to direct the spray.  You can shove the tube down into the cavity behind the rollers and flush out the crap hiding back there.
Globs that came loose thanks to the brake cleaner.  This is after numerous dips in the turpentine.
CV Joint after cleaning.
With the grease removed (using lots of paper towels) remove and set aside the steel bearings (Rotules - 6).  There is a circlip (4) on the inboard
and outboard side.  Your life will be much better if you invest  in a set of tools designed specifically for installing /  removing circlips. You can get an adequate set for $10. 
Use a shop press to remove the triax ring (5).