Joint replacement
Much consternation and stress has been caused by the two driveshafts on the CX.  They have to come out for any job that requires an engine pull. 

So, I thought I would document my quick, easy, but not very clean method to get the shafts out, such that you can pull the powertrain.

First & foremost, what is one of the most important "might-as-wells"?  I.e., if I am going to do a big job like pull the engine, then I might as well...... do this or that.   Well, for the driveshafts, this means replacing the inboard and outboard boots.  And since replacing the boots means throwing the old ones away, what do I care about the old boots?  So the inside boot gets cut, and the axle is pulled out.

These pages are the compiled result of two separate driveshaft jobs.  One job was the rebuild of the two shafts on the 2200 Pallas.  The other job was the replacement of the outside boot on the 25GTi, an unscheduled replacement.  Other than a longer midshaft and ABS teeth on the 25GTi, the design is very similar, at least for purposes of cleaning and renewal.

 
Getting the driveshafts out.
You should already know that the roadwheel comes off.
Straighten out and remove cotter pin from center of the wheel.  Throw it away, but only after you have used it to select its replacement.
Remove the protective ring.

And put it in a plastic bag that you have labeled.  EVERYTHING removed from a car goes in a plastic bag with a label.  Never move on to the next step until you have catalogued the part just removed.
Lots of people seemed to have problems getting the hub bolt off.  Not surprising given the factory specifies 250 foot-pounds of torque at installation.  Use an impact wrench & let it beat the shit out of the nut until it's loose.  Took about 5 seconds of pounding until it came loose.  It's a 35mm socket.  You have to have a functional parking brake, or the other wheel on the ground, with the transmission in gear.  Otherwise the wrench will just turn the axle and brake disc.
Next, remove the locknut at the lower balljoint
This is the tool I used to separate the balljoint.   This tool only works on the Series I cars.  A different tool is necessary for the Series II.  
The tool in place. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!  Yeah, I know all the tools say 'protect your eyes,'  but this time you really need to heed the warnings.   You will put a LOT of pressure on the tool to cause it to loosen the joint.   Normally this pressure will work to press the joint through the hole.  But if the joint is stuck, the tool could come off instead. When the pin disconnects, it sounds like a shotgun. 

No, I am not pushing the screw with my foot.

 I was careful not to damage the rubber boot at the base of the lower balljoint. A 19mm socket will turn the screw.  This side came loose after about 5-6 turns of the wrench..
Once the lower balljoint pin is free, I turned the axle/wheel assembly such that the driveshaft came loose.  I gave the axle a few taps from the outside to loosen the driveshaft.   In this picture, the driveshaft has been removed from the axle. The wires hanging in front of the splined section are for the brake pad warning light.  Someone cut them.

Digression:

 I have yet to see a car where these wires have not been cut.  They are cut because Citroen routed the wires along the lower arm to the caliper.  To disconnect the lower arm, the wires must be disconnected and unraveled from the caliper, something that requires loosening several more screws.  Or you can cut the wire.  Guess what most shops do?   This is a prime example of one engineer not talking to another, or the design team not looking at what happens to their work out in the real world.   I'm sure there is a reason for routing the wires along the lower arm that is complètement logique, probably relating to less wear or stress on the wire.    But in practice, this design forces additional work to separate the lower arm from the pivot.  If the wiring were routed along the upper arm, a balljoint or driveshaft job could be done without removing the wires.  The guy who designed the wiring never looked at the tasks involved in a balljoint job or a driveshaft job.  I see examples of this type of bullshit engineering time and again on these cars.

end of digression

Use rope to hold the pivot assembly out of your way.  .

Another view of the driveshaft removed from the axle.
You are now ready to pull the driveshafts.  The shop manuals advise you to disconnect the anti-roll bar connections. This is not necessary, and is just a waste of time for now.  You can get the driveshaft out without this step;  replacing it might be difficult.  Leave it in place for now.

Now that the driveshaft is free from the outside axle, it's time to pull the shaft from the car.   The port (left) side shaft attaches directly at the differential.  The starboard side driveshaft passes through an intermediate bearing in a race attached to the engine crankcase.   This bearing is held in place with two long screws with a head that has an 'ear' on one side (8 on the photo below).  The 'ears' hold the bearing in place.   The long screws are anchored with locknuts (7 in the photo) that are on the differential side of the bearing race.  The easiest way to reach these two nuts is from underneath.  A stubby ratchet wrench is indispensable!! Get the socket set in place and work it until it feels really loose.  This means the long bolts are loose.  Feel around on the other side of the race and you will find them. 

 
 Here's the bearing race:
 On the 25GTi, the right-side shaft came out with a firm tug, once I had loosened the bolts on the bearing race. 

 

But what if the driveshaft won't come out easily?   The quickest and easiest way to keep your project moving is to cut the boot.  The only thing holding the triax together is the rubber boot.  Without the boot, the entire axle would just slide out.  So, I did an episiotomy on the boot.  What's an episiotomy?  Ask any woman who has had a kid & then run because she will either throw things at you or kick you or something like that.
Another shot, better focus.  A sharp eye will note that I disconnected the upper link from the suspension cylinder.  Disconnecting the cylinder will make the suspension /  axle assembly easy to move, but this is certainly not necessary to remove the driveshaft.
In this view the boot is cut about 270°.  It is possible to rotate the driveshaft around so that you can keep cutting the boot from the top. The triax is partially exposed - the grease inside is visible.
In this view, one of the three triax arms is free from the carrier.
Once the triax joint is removed from the housing, IMMEDIATELY put it in a plastic bag.  The triax must not get any dirt in it.  Dirt and grit will ruin the bearings.  Label the bag BEFORE you move on to the other side of the car.
 
 
If you don't want to do the episiotomy, there is this tool:
 It's called a driveshaft puller.   Most parts catalogs list it as a tool to pull driveshafts for a Ford Mondeo.

First, separate the hook from the shaft.

   The triax case is larger than the indented portion on the hook; use the flat side against the back of the case.  Make sure the flat side is towards you.

You will need to reach up through the opening under the car, in the crossmember just aft of the motor, and position the hook next to the inboard side of the triax case.   Sorry, no photos from under the car.  In this photo the threaded hole in the hook is visible just past the triax case.  That's the rubber boot of the triax visible in the front.

Threading the rod back into the hook is easier than it would seem.  It helps if you can rest the bar or at least the slide hammer weight on something while you are turning the rod.  I held the hook with my left hand through the hole in the lower crossmember and turned the rod with my right hand.   Make your life much easier by giving the threads a good cleaning and douse everything with WD-40 or some other very light oil.    Note that I did not disassemble the anti-roll bar link, as advised by the shop manual.  It's possible to do this job with the link in place. 

 

Now, just pound the hell out of the slide hammer and the shaft will eventually come out.  If you reach up though the hole in the crossmember, you can feel the position of the bearing  as it moves out of the race. The shaft will move more easily if the driveshaft is aligned with the hole in the differential.  On the right side,  this is ensured by the bearing race that is part of the lower crankcase for about the first inch of outward travel.   Once the bearing is free of the race, the entire driveshaft will be at an angle to the differential hole, and thus more difficult to remove.   I would support the outside end of the drive shaft by putting it back into the hole in the wheel hub. 

 

 
Now, taking it apart and cleaning it.