Handbrake Reinstallation and Adjustment

Reinstallation and adjustment of the handbrake linkages. The linkages were removed and cleaned on this page.

First, install the linkage on the caliper with the retaining bolts and eccentrics. Tighten the bolts lightly.

The first step in the adjustment is to unscrew this screw, which I have highlighted from a pre-cleaning picture:

Unscrew the screw until the head of the screw touches the caliper body. In this photo my hand is near the end of the screwdriver, turning a wrench. When you continue to unscrew the screw, it pushes against the caliper body, and it levers the linkage outward. Keep unscrewing until the outside bar of the linkage touches the metal collar, the red arrow on the right; and until the triangular plate touches the inside bar (spring side) of the linkage.

Here's another view of the stop point on the inside bar (spring side) of the linkage. The red arrows show where they will touch.

Before moving to the next step, set your torque wrench and put your 17mm socket on it. You won't have time to do this later.

Now it's time to adjust the eccentrics. Remember CLOCKWISE FROM THE REAR. You turn the tool in a clockwise direction when looking at the rear of the caliper. When you tighten the retaining bolts, what direction is it? Clockwise. So, if you had set the eccentrics in a counter-clockwise direction, you might loosen their grip on the pads when you tighten the retaining bolts. If you set the eccentrics in a clockwise direction then the tightening motion will only push them closer to the pad. The shop manuals recommend to adjust the eccentrics until the pads are just touching the disc at maximum runout.

I've found the feeler gauge to be indispensable in this job.

Put the feeler gauge up between the handbrake pad and the brake disc. Turn the eccentric clockwise. This pushes the pad against the disc. Turn the eccentric until the feeler gauge is suspended.

I use an allen key / hex key for this job.

In a moment, you'll see why.

Use the allen key and turn the eccentric in the other direction, loosening the eccentric's pressure on the pad,

Until the feeler gauge set falls to the ground. It won't be too much of a turn. Just a few degrees.

If you tightened the retaining bolts enough, the eccentric will stay at the place where the feeler fell to the ground.

Take the allen wrench and set the long arm so that it is most parallel to the disc. The short arm should point towards the disc. Use your feeler gauges to fill the gap between the end of the allen wrench and the disc. If you can't get a good spot on the disc to prop up the allen key, use another part, perhaps on the caliper. The purpose is to keep the eccentric from moving when the retaining bolt is being tightened.

Tighten the retaining bolt with your torque wrench.

The allen key locks the eccentric into position, because it is braced against the disc, through the stack of feeler gauges. This is A LOT of torque. The allen key was starting to bend at the last few pushes with the wrench. I think this is the main reasons most people's handbrakes lose adjustment - the retaining bolts were not tight enough.