For the right side driveshaft, this was an absolute nightmare from hell.  On both cars.   Neither Haynes nor RTA nor the factory manual offer advice on this job.   The complication comes from the fact that the splined end of the driveshaft must be PERFECTLY aligned with the hole in the differential.  This is tough to do because the driveshaft is heavy, and there's little room through the holes in the crossmember to reach up and position it.  So, here are a few comments from my experience in wrestling with the thing.
1.  PUT THE EAR-BOLTS IN FIRST.  Item 8 on the below photo. I learned this lesson the hard way.   Once the driveshaft is in place, there is not enough room between the Triax casing and the holes for the ear-bolts to get the bolts in place.  So, guess what, the driveshaft has to come back out.  Realising this after you have spent two hours wrestling with the driveshaft will completely spoil your day.

2.  Disconnect the anti-roll bar link.  You might not have disconnected it when you removed the driveshafts.  having it out of the way will make setting the driveshaft in place easier. There is not much clearance between the vertical frame member and the link.  The shaft may have been easy to remove if you did an episiotomy on the boot.  But with a new boot and Ligarex, there is not much room.
3. Support the upper control arm and the driveshaft with ratcheting tie-down straps.

 

I like the ratcheting tie-downs better than bungee cords because you can adjust the length of the strap exactly. 

You want to set up the upper control arm first.  Try to get the hole on the hub aligned with the mid-shaft bearing and the differential.    You'll have to do it by eye; try to get it close.

Put some grease on the splined end of the driveshaft
Run the end of the driveshaft through the bearing race.  You may want to put some grease on the bearing race as well.
Wiggle the steering pivot and the outside end of the driveshaft to get the end of the shaft through the hole in the pivot.
Don't forget to put on the big rubber dust shield, the white plastic ring, and the o-ring at the end of the driveshaft. You will have to run the driveshaft through the middle bearing race first, then reach up through the holes in the frame to put the rings in place.
When the mid-shaft bearing is about 2-3 cm from the bearing race, thunk!  The driveshaft hits up against the differential.
 This is when it is important to support the driveshaft with the second ratcheting tie-down.
You'll have to alternate from under the car to next to the car to get things aligned properly.  The best thing to watch is the mid-shaft bearing and the bearing race.  If the bearing is correctly aligned to the bearing race, the end of the driveshaft will be aligned to the hole in the differential.  This is where the ratcheting tie-down is helpful, as it allows you too set the loop exactly so that the driveshaft is supported at the exact height.
Once the strap is supporting the driveshaft, it's time to push it into the differential. I found the best way to do this is to:
  1. hold the driveshaft at the differential with my left hand.  SInce the weight of the driveshaft is supported by the tie-down strap, I'm not supporting the whole weight of the driveshaft with one hand.
  2. hold the brake disk with my right hand.  Remember, the weight of the steering pivot is supported by the the tie-down strap.
  3. adjust the driveshaft up & down, side-to-side with my left hand
  4. turn the driveshaft with using the brake disk - the splines on the shaft have to align with the splines in the differential
  5. tap the end of the driveshaft with the entire steering pivot using the brake disk.  No need to use a lot of force.  If the shaft is not aligned, it won't move.  You will tell by the vibration in your right hand when you tap the steering pivot on the outside end of the driveshaft.   If it is aligned, the shaft will move into the hole.  The vibration in your right hand will be different because some of your tapping is being absorbed by the shaft's movement into the hole.   you can also tell by watching the mid-shaft bearing move into the bearing race.  Once the bearing is in the race, the race is now supporting the shaft, in perfect alignment with the differential.  The shaft will slide in much more easily now. 
  6.  You can tell when the shaft is in far enough by using the dog-ear bolts.  The dog-ear end must be completely within the slots in the bearing race.  If you run your finger along the outer side of the race, you should only feel the slots for the bolts, not the heads of the bolts.